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The website of Author/Writer and Psychic Medium Astrid Brown. Making the most of 'YOU' i.e. how to achieve well-being and beauty from within ourselves. A truly holistic blog providing information on all aspects of psychic mediumship, spiritualism, philosophy, holistic therapies, nutrition, health, stress, mental health and beauty with a little bit of Wicca for good measure. Feeling and looking good is as much a part of how we feel inside as the outside.

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I am a great believer in Karma, but just what is it? Karma comes from the Sanskrit and ancient Indian Language with the underlying principal that every deed in our lives will affect our future life. For example, if we treat others badly during our lifetime we will have negative experiences later on in that lifetime or in future lifetimes. Likewise, if we treat others well we will be rewarded by positive experiences.

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ASTRID BROWN
Showing posts with label antiwrinkle creams. Show all posts
Showing posts with label antiwrinkle creams. Show all posts

Tuesday, 31 July 2012

FIZZY DRINKS LEADING BIOLOGIST SAYS THEY ARE EVIL, READ THE REPORT


Having seen the evidence, I don't touch fizzy drinks any more. Frankly they're evil, says leading biologist

  • Consumption of soft drinks has more than doubled since 1985 - from ten gallons per person a year to more than 25 gallons
  • Sugary drinks lead to alterations in muscles similar to those in people with obesity problems and type 2 diabetes

Biological scientist Dr Hans-Peter Kubis, who's just led a study into what soft drinks do to our bodies, has reached some shocking conclusions. When you read what he discovered, you may well choose never to touch the fizzy stuff again.
Fizzy drinks appear to increase the risk of heart disease, liver failure and hypertension
Fizzy drinks appear to increase the risk of heart disease, liver failure and hypertension
Once upon a time, fizzy drinks were an occasional luxury treat. 
Now, many of us think nothing of having at least one every day — maybe a lunchtime can of cola or a ‘natural’ lemonade from Pret. 
We use them as instant pick-me-ups, and even as ‘healthy’ sports aids bought from vending machines at the gym. 
No trip to the cinema is complete without a supersize soft drink, either.
It’s no surprise to learn, then, that our consumption of soft drinks has more than doubled since 1985 — from ten gallons per person a year to more than 25 gallons.
We know this is not entirely good for us — but could sugary soft drinks be so dangerous that they should carry health warnings? 
This may sound alarmist, but new medical studies are have produced worrying results.
Even moderate consumption — a can a day, or just two a week — may alter our metabolism so that we pile on weight.
The drinks also appear to increase the risk of heart disease, liver failure and hypertension. 
In children, soft drinks have been linked to addict-like cravings, as well as twisting kids’ appetites so they hunger for junk food.
Already, countries such as Denmark and France are introducing soft-drink taxes to cut consumption. 
In the U.S., around 100 medical and consumer organisations are now calling on the Surgeon-General to investigate the health effects of soda and other sugary drinks. 
Should we in Britain follow suit? 
Sugary soft drinks come in numerous guises — from ‘innocuous’ fizzy elderflower to ‘health’ drinks such as Lucozade and ‘sports’ beverages like Gatorade.
Last year, we swallowed an astounding 14,585 million litres of soft drinks, an increase of more than 4 per cent in 12 months, according to the British Soft Drinks Association. 
Our spending rose by nearly 6 per cent to £13,880 million in 2010 — the fastest growth in the past seven years. 
We clearly like our soft drinks. But the medical evidence is stacking up against them.
Last week, a study suggested they can cause weight gain and long-term health problems if drunk every day for as little as a month.
What's in your favourite?   

The research, by Bangor University and published in the European Journal Of Nutrition, reported that soft drinks actually alter metabolism, so that our muscles use sugar for energy instead of burning fat.
It seems that exposure to liquid sugar causes genes in our muscles to change their behaviour, perhaps permanently.
Not only do we pile on weight, but our metabolism becomes less efficient and less able to cope with rises in blood sugar, say the researchers.
This, in turn, increases the risk of type 2 diabetes.

‘Having seen all the medical evidence, I don’t touch soft drinks now,’ says Dr Hans-Peter Kubis, a biological scientist and expert in exercise nutrition who led the research.

'I think drinks with added sugar are, frankly, evil.’
In fact, the Bangor study is only the latest in a long line of reports warning of the link between soft drinks and serious health problems.
A study in March, for example, warned that men who drink a standard 12oz can of sugar-sweetened beverage every day have a 20 per cent higher risk of heart disease compared to men who don’t drink any sugar-sweetened drinks.
The research published in the American Heart Association’s journal, Circulation, followed more than 42,000 men for 22 years.
Blood tests found soft-drink fans had higher levels of harmful inflammation in their blood vessels, and lower levels of ‘good’ HDL cholesterol.
Energy drinks such as Red Bull have boomed in popularity in the past ten years. The regular version contains seven teaspoons of sugar per 250ml
Energy drinks such as Red Bull have boomed in popularity in the past ten years. The regular version contains seven teaspoons of sugar per 250ml
The study suggested this may be a result of the sugar rush these soft drinks cause.
This increased sudden sugar load on the body may also explain research which found just two carbonated drinks (330ml each) every week appears to double the risk of pancreatic cancer, reported the journal Cancer Epidemiology, Biomarkers and Prevention.
Meanwhile, soft drinks with high levels of fruit juice may cause severe long-term liver damage, according to an Israeli study.
People who drank two cans of these drinks a day were five times more likely to develop fatty liver disease — a precursor to cirrhosis and liver cancer.
Dr Hans-Peter Kubis says he no longer touches soft drinks after his research
Dr Hans-Peter Kubis says he no longer touches soft drinks after his research
In the Journal of Hepatology, the lead investigator, Dr Nimer Assy, warned high levels of fructose fruit sugar in the drinks can overwhelm the liver, leading it to accumulate fat.
Perhaps most disturbing is the picture emerging from various studies that suggest sugary drinks expose children to a perfect storm of obesity threats.
Four years ago, researchers at University College London’s Health Behaviour Research Centre discovered a powerful — and lucrative  — effect sugary soft drinks have on youngsters. 
The study of 346 children aged around 11 found drinking soft drinks makes them want to drink more often, even when they’re not actually thirsty — and that their preference is for more sugary drinks. 
Children who drank water or fruit juice in the tests didn’t show this unnecessary need to drink. 
The researchers expressed concern that this may set the children’s habits for life — in particular, giving them an ‘increased preference for sweet things in the mouth’, without compensating for the extra calories by eating less food.
More recent research suggests fizzy drinks may sway children’s tastes towards high-calorie, high-salt food. 
Part of this worrying phenomenon was revealed earlier this year by Oregon University investigators. 
Their study of 75 children aged between three and five found those given sugary soft drinks avoided eating raw vegetables such as carrots or red peppers, but went for foods high in calories, such as chips. 
This did not happen when the children were given water to drink. 
The researchers said this wasn’t about simple fussiness. Instead, our tastes for food and drink seem to be shaped in a like-with-like manner. 
This discovery comes on top of an earlier finding, by heart experts at St George’s, University of London, that children and teenagers who consume sugary soft drinks are far more likely to prefer foods high in salt. 
Dr Kubis believes that liquid sugars not only alter our bodies, but also foster addict-like responses. 
‘The body absorbs liquid sugars so much faster because they are more easily taken into the stomach lining, and this rapid intake fires up the body’s pleasure responses,’ he says.
Coca-Cola in the U.S. has reduced levels of one of its ingredients following fears that it could cause cancer
Coca-Cola in the U.S. has reduced levels of one of its ingredients following fears that it could cause cancer
‘At the same time, your brain reduces its desire for the taste of nutrients such as vitamins or minerals,’ says Dr Kubis. This is what makes these sugary drinks so habit-forming.
‘There is a huge overlap between what is addictive behaviour with drugs and the use of sweet food,’ he adds. 
‘In lab experiments, even rats who have been made addicted to cocaine will prefer to have a sugary drink instead of cocaine.’ 
He says sugary drink habits aren’t necessarily an addiction ‘because not all of us suffer withdrawal symptoms when we cut out sugary drinks’. 
The story may be different with children, however. ‘With children, there is more evidence of addictive behaviour,’ Dr Kubis says. 
‘You get tantrums, restlessness  and distress if you stop their soft-drink consumption.’
This may be because children’s developing brains are more prone to developing sugar cravings, or because children’s desires are simply more transparent.
Sadly, there’s little point shifting from sugary soft drinks to ‘healthy alternatives’ such as fizzy real-fruit lemonades or fruit-juice drinks, says Dr Kubis, because the liquid sugar problem still remains.
‘Posh soft drinks with real fruit might be marketed as healthy, but this may be rather cynical, as such drinks can be just as dangerous,’ he explains, adding that some fruit drinks contain more sugar than a can of fizz.

SUGAR: THE BIGGEST DANGER HIDDEN IN A CAN OF COKE

Sugar cubes
Doctors are in no doubt - the biggest danger from cola doesn’t come from the hidden additives, flavourings  or colourings, but from sugar.
Too much sugar leads to obesity, the major cause of cancer in the western world.
It also increases the risk of type 2 diabetes, causes heart disease and increases the risk of stroke.
The over-consumption of sugar has been linked to depression, poor memory formation and learning disorders in animal experiments. And it rots teeth.
Each regular can of  cola contains eight teaspoons of sugar. When you drink that much sugar so quickly, the body experiences an intense sugar rush.
The cane and beet  sugar used in Coca-Cola is used up quickly by the body,  which soon experiences a  rapid drop  in energy, leading to cravings for more sugar.
    
Even when it comes to ‘healthy’ sports drinks, the evidence is that they’re not only a waste of money, because you don’t need them, but they could also be harmful. 
An investigation by the universities of Oxford and Harvard warned that popular brands such as Lucozade and Powerade contain large amounts of sugar and calories which encourage weight gain, the British Medical Journal reported earlier this month.
On top of all this is the damage fizzy drinks can wreak on teeth. A study in the journal General Dentistry in June found that cola is ten times as corrosive as fruit juice in the first three minutes of drinking. 
One of the chief culprits is citric acid, which gives tangy drinks their kick.
Diet Coke has no sugar - but still contains chemicals that can rot the teeth
Diet Coke has no sugar - but still contains chemicals that can rot the teeth
A study in the British Dental Journal found four cans of fizzy drink a day increased the risk of tooth erosion by 252 per cent.
The drinks industry, of course, has spent countless millions of pounds bombarding us with sophisticated and expensive marketing in order to weld their products in  our minds to images of healthiness and fun.
Few who lined the streets of Britain for the Olympic torch procession could have failed to notice the role of Coca-Cola.
The company paid more than £100 million for the exclusive rights to be the official provider of soft drinks at the Games. 
The late Coca-Cola chief executive, Roberto Guizueta, said: ‘Eventually, the number-one beverage on Earth will not be tea or coffee or wine or beer. It will be soft drinks — our soft drinks.’
Today, however, there is a growing backlash against soft drinks.
Earlier this month, a group of leading health organisations, including the American Cancer Association, the American Diabetes Association, Yale University’s Rudd Centre for Food Policy and Obesity, and the American Heart Association, called on the U.S. Surgeon-General to investigate the health effects of soda and other sugary drinks.
Soft drinks play a major role in the U.S.’s obesity crisis, the campaigners say, and they want a study into them similar in scale and impact to the Surgeon-General’s landmark report on the dangers of smoking in 1964. 
Kathleen Sebelius, the former Governor of Kansas, who campaigns on behalf of the American Cancer Society, declared: ‘An unbiased and comprehensive report on the impact of sugar-sweetened beverages could . . . perhaps begin to change the direction of public behaviour in their choices of food and drinks.’
Legislators are already starting to act. In May, New York Mayor Michael Bloomberg, announced a ban on serving cartons bigger than 16oz (a pint). 
Last year, the Hungarian government imposed a tax on unhealthy drinks and foods.

CITRIC ACID: HELPING FIZZY DRINKS ROT YOUR TEETH

Lemons
Citric acid gives lemons, oranges and grapefruit their kick and cola its bite, helping to make the drink nearly as corrosive as battery acid when it comes to teeth.
Prolonged exposure to cola and other fizzy drinks strips tooth enamel causing pain, ugly smiles and — in extreme cases — turning teeth to stumps.
A study in the journal General Dentistry found that cola is ten times as corrosive as fruit juices in the first three minutes of drinking.
The researchers took slices of freshly extracted teeth and immersed them in 20 soft drinks. Teeth dunked for 48 hours in cola and lemonade lost more than five per cent of their weight.
A study in the British Dental Journal found that just one can of fizzy drink a day increased the risk of tooth erosion. While four cans increased the erosion risk by  252 per cent.
   
And, earlier this year, France imposed a tax on sugary soft drinks after a study found that more than 20 million of its citizens are overweight.
Health campaigners here are pressing for a similar tax. Researchers at Oxford University calculate that a 20 per cent tax on soft drinks would reduce obesity and overweight in Britain by 1 per cent — roughly 400,000 cases across Britain. 
‘We don’t get anything like that  level of success from trying to educate people about healthy eating,’ says researcher Dr Mike Rayner.
‘I am not suggesting that people should never have soft drinks,’ he stresses. ‘I myself like drinking them. But they really should be restricted to weekends and  holiday treats.’
Understandably, the idea of a tax has met stiff opposition from the British Soft Drinks Association.
Its spokesman, Richard Laming, argues that ‘soft drinks, like any other food or drink, can be consumed in moderation as part of a balanced diet, and there is no reason to tax them’.
On top of that, he says, UK soft drink manufacturers are producing more low-sugar products. 
‘About half of the soft drinks market in the UK is made up of reduced or zero calorie drinks nowadays.’
Nor is Mr Laming impressed by last week’s Bangor University findings. 
‘The study lasted only four weeks and had only a tiny sample size of just 11 people. That is no basis on which to make claims about effects that last a lifetime.’
Dr Kubis acknowledges the study’s limitations and says that he is working to produce a much larger trial to see if the findings are confirmed in people who start consuming large amounts of sugary soda. 
In this, he faces one significant problem.
‘It is difficult to find young people who have not previously been exposed to a lot of soft drinks,’ he laments.



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Sunday, 29 July 2012

ANTI AGEING CREAMS DO THEY WORK?

I saw this article below in the Daily Mail and this sort of thing really annoys me. Do they honestly think we are all stupid? Fact NOTHING CAN BE ABSORBED VIA THE SKIN UNLESS ITS A MEDICINE and if it could it would have to be classified as a medicine and it would be prescription only. Essential oils because they are essentially the plants hormones can be and that is why they must be diluted and advice should be sought from a qualified Aromatherapist before using them. Ultra Violet A can also permeate the skin and it is this that damages our skin more than anything. Anyone who is qualified in anatomy and physiology would understand this, but marketing knows a vast amount of the public isn't so relies on ignorance to sell its products and tries to blind the public with its pseudo scientific terminology to aid it's cause.  Our skin is there to protect our inner organs to keep water and bacteria out and everybody knows how tiny bacteria is, if it was possible for the skin to absorb products, we would end up being in a right sorry state.  In the article below from the Daily Mail it also states  product infuses the skin with oxygen, this is total bunkum! oxygen can only be carried to the skin cells via the blood stream and interstitial fluid as the tiny capillaries that deliver oxygen and remove carbon dioxide are only one cell thick and need to be minute for this process. I'm sorry ladies but prevention is the cure too much UVA light will age you as the specialised cells within the Dermis that produce collagen and elastin are damaged by this. Drinking plenty of water, a balanced diet, not too much alcohol, regular exercise (tones up the cardiovascular system to speed up blood supply to the skin) and relaxation techniques, as stress hormones also damage the specialised cells that produce collagen and elastin and no smoking will help prevent wrinkles prematurely. The use of a good moisturiser to prevent the skin from drying out also helps and ladies it does not need to be expensive. The photograph of me on the background of my page here was taken a few weeks ago and I am 55 and I have not had a facelift, nor botox or any fillers. A few posts ago I did a review of an Aldi moisturiser that costs a mere £1.99, it works for me and I can highly recommend this product.

To explain:


THE SKIN HOW IT WORKS

Firstly please read the blogs and page on health as this will give an indication on a balanced diet.

If I were to ask you what is the largest organ in the body what would you say? It's not the liver or the intestines but the skin, it does a very important job for us and how many of us take it for granted and don't look after it.

HOW THE SKIN WORKS

The basics so you will understand how the skin works. The skin is comprised of 3 layers, the Epidermis the layer you can see, the Dermis the true skin and the subcutaneous.Cosmetics only work on the Epidermis and you can see how deep it is, if you have ever experienced a blister. A blister is caused when friction causes the Epidermis and the Dermis to separate and the fluid within the blister is lymph. The Epidermis has no nerve endings or blood supply that is why removing the top layer of a blister is not painful, not to be recommended though as it exposes the Dermis which is rich in nerves and a blood supply to infection.

The skin  has several functions to secrete sebum that oily substance on your skin, this is to help keep the skin moisturised by trapping moisture and forming a barrier together with sweat known as the 'Acid Mantle' The Acid Mantle is slightly acidic and acts as a Bacteriastat to inhibit bacteria. The skin secretes sebum via the sebaceous glands within the hair follicles and sweat via the Endocrine glands (there are another type of sweat glands know as Apocrine glands these are found in the axillary and pubic regions unlike Endocrine sweat bacteria act on Apocrine sweat quickly and this causes the characteristic Body Odour, these glands only become active after puberty and have a role to play in pheromones)

Our body temperature is regulated by the skin this is due to the  peripheral circulation either dilating to bring blood to the extremities of the body like the skin causing flushing to help loose some of the heat and also by sweating for as the sweat evaporates heat rises with it. The opposite happens when its cold the body conserves heat to vital organs more important than the skin, giving a more white/bluish appearance and may even induce shivering. At the base of every hair follicle there is a tiny cilary muscle when its cold and we start to shiver this muscle contracts causing the hair to stand up trapping a layer of air next to the skin, giving the appearance of goosebumps. Within the Dermis there are sensory nerves that detect temperature. We also have an insulatory layer of fat in the subcutaneous.

Our skin is waterproof so absorbs very little, the only things that can permeate the skin are medications, this includes patches such as Nicotine  and HRT and Essential oils (see Aromatherapy articles on Blog) COSMETICS CAN NOT. Do not believe the hype and sales talk ladies if it could be absorbed by the skin you you have to go to your Doctor for it and it would need to be licensed as a Medicine.

Our Skin is protected by sensory nerves that alert us to pain, pressure, touch, heat and cold, it is waterproof largely impermeable except to the substances above, fairly tough and it with its layer of fat below the dermis in the subcutaneous layer keeps us warm, protects our organs and bones, gives us shape. As fore mentioned the Acid Mantle helps protect from bacteria as bacterial growth is inhibited in its slightly acid environment. Melanocytes special little cells in the dermis increase as a result of UV light and give us tanning, the epidermis also thickens to help protect our skin. Also in the skin are mast cells and when they are damaged, they produce histomine, it gives the characteristic itching a weals associated by allergies, its function is to stimulate blood to the skin to repair and maintain it. However with allergies the body is hypersensitive producing this effect.

The skin also excretes some toxins through sweat but this is very very minimal, so do not believe the hype of some sales people who will suggest you have a detoxifying foot bath that will rid you of toxins as it changes the water to a dirty brown colour. Again this is sheer hype and nonsense for if ridding the body of toxins was that easy we wouldn't have a need for Dialysis Machines for those suffering kidney failure. It is the Liver, Kidneys and large Intestine that detoxify us.

Vitamin D is also formed in the skin as a result of the action of UV light acting on 7-dehydrocholesterol present in the skin, so everything in moderation we do need some sunlight.

CARING FOR THE SKIN

So you know know how the skin works and it's functions  and that's great when everything is in balance. However skin is a very sensitive organ but as far as the body is concerned it is a lesser important organ that the heart, lungs, liver etc, so priority is given to important organs at times of stress, whether that is emotional stress i.e. worry etc. or physical stress such as extremes of temperature and its very cold. 

What we put on the skin can throw it off balance, many people use soap and water, well thats fine for your body, but our face has more sebaceous glands, is more exposed to the elements and more open to micro-organisms. Why not soap and water? well soap is alkaline  and remember the acid mantle is slightly acidic, this maintains an environment where micro-organisms are less likely to multiply and if you use an alkaline product you will strip away this protective layer, making the skin more susceptible to infection. Because our sebaceous glands tend to be more active on the face, and this increase of sebum in nature's moisturiser, there may be more of a tendency for them to become blocked, if infection enters the blocked pores the result it a spot. There are a number of cleansing bars on the market and water activated cleansers around for those of you who like the feel of water on your face.

The trouble and risk of blocked pores is magnified if there is also a build up of dead skin cells. Now it takes roughly 28 days for new cells in the basal layer of the epidermis to form and be shed, this time span increases with age, as we get older our skin becomes more sluggish, if we don't cleanse our skin adequately enough a layer of dead cells sit on the surface making our complexion dull, combined with sebum these dead cells can block pores causing blackheads. Inncidently blackheads are not dirt but sebum and dead cells form a plug and oxidise  causing this this discolouration. In order to keep our complexions fresh and depending on the type of skin you have exfoliation should be carried out once to twice a week, with oily skin generally twice. There are various products on the market but avoid those exfoliators that are made from ground up nutshells and husks as these can be quite scratchy and can damage the surface of the skin leading to possible infection. Rather choose a product with fine micro beads. Some exfoliators work by dissolving dead skin cells and are often fruit based containing fruit acids or enzymes, these may irritate sensitive skin so its a good idea to patch test an area  before proceeding.

But before choosing what cleanser to use on your skin, you need to know what type of skin you have. Firstly normal skin is a rarity, normal skin is like the skin children have, its neither dry or oily, theres no visible pores nor shine, it has a good texture and colour, no spots, blackheads and is plump and has good elasticity. Now how many of us can say we have normal skin? Oily skin often has visible pores particularly down the 'T zone' of our faces, it becomes shiny very quickly, it is prone to blackheads and spots, its doesn't have dry, flaky patches and often has a sallow colour about it and make up slides of the face quite quickly. Dry skin, has no obvious pores, doesn't have a tendency to blackheads or spots, can have flaky itchy areas, often feels tight after cleansing and a tendency to line and can often be more highly coloured. Combination skin is by far the most common type of skin, it often has an oil 'T zone' with normal, if your lucky outer areas or dry cheeks. It is a combination of either of the aforementioned types. So you have 4 skin types. Now if only it was that simple but the skin has different conditions that affect it. Firstly moisture, it may surprise you to know that even oily skin can become dehydrated as this is down to moisture content in the skin and not oil. Central heating, changes in temperatures, windy weather and not drinking enough water, too much coffee, tea and cola drinks and alcohol all affect our skin and can lead to dehydration. Oily skin favours better than most as sebum can trap some moisture but not enough to prevent moisture loss. So its important you keep yourself hydrated and drink plenty of water to start with and use the correct moisturiser for your skin type. Moisturiser does what it says, its job is to trap moisture in the skin, with dry skin moisturisers, they generally are more oil based than one designed for oily skin and so on.

Cleansing is a matter of preference but your skin type will guide you as I mentioned early, some people prefer the feel of water on their skin so a rinse off type of cleanser will suit them. But whatever way you cleanse your skin, cleanse it twice once to remove make up and the grime from the day and second to deep cleanse the skin. Which leads me on to eye make up remover. The skin around the eyes is very delicate and is the thinest skin thickness on our bodies so treat it with care. Do not treat it roughly or rub cleanser harshly around the eyes as this will stretch this delicate skin. Eye make up is designed for this sensitive area and not all facial cleansers suitable, check the packaging. Which leads on to all in one cleansers and wipes, these are fine short term but not ideal in the long term. Many of the wipes contain alcohol and irritate sensitive eye tissue and certainly the same wipe should not be used for both eyes due to the risk of cross infection, the same goes for cotton wool pads and tissues.

Toners do we need them? well if you use a water based rinse of cleanser no you don't as the water is suffice to tone and freshen the skin, but if you use a tissue off cleanser yes you do to remove any residue of cleanser and grime. These vary from hydrasols (i.e. rose water) to witch hazel, avoid alcohol on the face as it will remove the acid mantle.

It may surprise you to know that skin after the age of 25 is considered mature but after the age of 25 ageing signs start becoming apparent. Prevention is better than cure and a lot easier. We know from Part 1 how UV light contributes to ageing so be sure your moisturiser contains a sun protection level of at least 15 thats the first thing to be aware of. Drink plenty of water to maintain moisture levels and avoid caffeinated drinks as they are diuretics as encourage the kidneys to excrete more urine and can lead to dehydration. A good balanced diet with plenty of fruit and vegetables to give the cells the right nutrients. Avoid smoking I explained in an earlier article how this ages the skin and does so by ten years. And there is stress, now that is difficult to avoid but there are things you can do, you can lessen its affects by relaxation and I will be giving tips to avoid the damaging effects due to stress later.

Anti-wrinkle cremes, well if you read the earlier article in Part 1 no cosmetic can penetrate the epidermis, so I have to say ladies expensive skin cremes are a total waste of money. The only thing I would say is that avoid products with mineral oil as this oil sits on the surface of the skin, yes it traps the evaporation of moisture but it can block the pores but its fine to use on the body, instead use a vegetable oil based product and by that I don't mean 'Crisp and Dry' some examples are Almond oil, Jojoba oil, Olive oil. With expensive cremes you are paying for the packaging and nice jar. There are temporary anti-wrinkle fixers that work by temporarily tightening up the skin or have fillers and light reflective powders that soften the appearance of lines. Simple things like avoiding squinting in the sun or getting your eyes checked if you have difficulty in reading will prevent many a line forming around the eyes




Rise of the wrinkle busters: The Duchess of Cambridge's favourite anti-ageing cream is put to the test... with incredible results (and at around £50 it won't break the bank)



Radiant: The Duchess is said to be a big fan of the Karin Herzog range
Radiant: The Duchess is said to be a big fan of the Karin Herzog range
As a beauty writer I am acutely aware that much pseudo-science is spouted by manufacturers in a bid to tempt the public to buy their latest wonder cream. And once, this was largely marketing guff.
All moisturisers are essentially an emulsion of oil and water. The way to works is simple: putting it on the skin traps moisture to the surface, and stops the uppermost layers from becoming dry. But can using one really stop the ageing process - or even make us look younger?
Today, the answer is yes. Anti-ageing products available on the High Street are increasingly high-tech, created using techniques borrowed from advanced medical research. And they actually work - as I discovered when I put one famous Royal’s favourite face cream to the test.
For a month, I used The Duchess of Cambridge’s moisturiser of choice - from Karin Herzog range - which you can pick up in most department stores at around £50 for a 50ml pot. And scientists analysing my skin told me there was irrefutable evidence that my wrinkles had been reduced by 27 per cent. So how is this possible?
Experts call this ‘the age of the cosmeceutical’. That’s a term coined to cover high-tech skincare that falls into the gap between cosmetics, which by law should make only a very temporary change to the skin, and pharmaceutical products, which can be provided only with a doctor’s prescription, and bring about lasting changes.
Although it’s not a term recognised in law by the Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Authority (MHRA), which licenses medicines in the UK, it is a useful description as the lines between cosmetics and medicines are becoming increasingly blurred.
Technically, any potion that makes a physiological change to the skin – reducing wrinkles and uneven pigmentation, and reversing sun damage and other dermatological problems – should be classed as a medicine.
Kate's moisturiser of choice - which costs around £50 for a 50ml pot from the Karin Herzog range - was tested over the course of a month
Kate's moisturiser of choice - which costs around £50 for a 50ml pot from the Karin Herzog range - was tested over the course of a month
But to put a product through medical drug-testing is a lengthy process costing millions, and not something that even the major cosmetics companies would want to do, not least because at the end of it you would have a product that could be sold only on prescription rather than over the counter.
However, it is beyond dispute that today’s cosmetics can make significant changes to the skin. In the past decade, skincare companies have been falling over themselves to provide credible proof of how well their products work to persuade us to buy them.
And this is not just the ‘surveys-show-that-nine-out-of-ten-women-thought-their-skin-looked-better’ type of proof, but clinical trials, where the product has been properly tested against a placebo under controlled conditions.
No 7’s Protect And Perfect line famously began to sell out repeatedly in 2007 after clinical trials on the product, which showed that it genuinely reduced wrinkles, were judged to be scientifically sound.
Olay’s Regenerist 3-point Treatment Cream caused a stampede the following year after trials confirmed it made skin firmer within 21 days. Two years ago, Clinique conducted trials to demonstrate that its Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector (a bit of a mouthful, but one heck of a product) produced comparable results in reducing skin pigmentation to hydroquinone, the standard prescription treatment for skin pigmentation.
And in the past few weeks, L’Oreal’s new Revitalift Laser Renew serum has been shown by a clinical trial to produce skin benefits comparable to treatment with a skin-resurfacing laser. You’d expect these new wonder-potions to cost a small fortune, but all the above are between £20 and £40.
Because technically these creams are doing more than they ought, it has led to a bizarre situation where companies don’t always want to let on just how extensive the effects of their products may be in case of calls for them to be recategorised as medicines.
It’s time the categories were redrawn, if you ask Dr Chris Flower, director general of the cosmetics trade body, the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA).
Skin deep: Beauty writer Alice Hart-Davis looks beyond the pseudo-science of wonder creams and discovers one worthy of the hype
Skin deep: Beauty writer Alice Hart-Davis looks beyond the pseudo-science of wonder creams and discovers one worthy of the hype
‘We now understand better the physiology of the skin and its responses to ingredients and can see that where the borderline [between cosmetics and medicines] has been drawn is not necessarily the best dividing line,’ he says. ‘Cosmetics aren’t watered-down drugs any more than they are beefed-up shoe polish. The key thing is that they are safe, effective and high-quality.
‘We are now trying to work out the best legal way of saying “medicine takes ill people and makes them better and cosmetics take ordinary, healthy people and make them better”. Ageing isn’t a disease but we can do things to improve it.
‘Cosmetics used to be purely decorative. But now we understand that even a simple moisturiser changes the way cells express genes and enzymes, so it’s interacting with the skin – but no one would seriously think that Vaseline should be labelled a medicine. Rather than arguing over the interpretation of legislation, we should take a commonsense approach and look at whether a product is aimed at sick people or healthy people.’
In the interests of research (and, yes, of vanity) I make a point of trying interesting new skincare lines and using them diligently for a month – the length of time it takes for any beneficial changes in the skin to show up – just to see what they are like.
Alice before and after
Last year, the selection ranged from Elizabeth Arden (lovely – its Prevage serum and SPF-fortified day cream suited my skin very well) to No 7’s Lift & Luminate (not ideal for me), though the product that made my skin look best of all – glowing, vibrant, neither dry nor overly oiled – was Environ, a range created by a South African cosmetic surgeon and based on the benefits to the skin of high-strength Vitamin C.
But then I was persuaded to try Karin Herzog, a Swiss range of handmade products that have trapped oxygen within the cream (much harder to do than it sounds).
The creams claim to infuse the skin with healing oxygen by a process that I didn’t quite understand so I’ll spare you the details.
What did make me prick up my ears was the quiet aside that these are the products that the Duchess of Cambridge has been using for years, and to which she is apparently devoted. If they’re good enough for her outstandingly beautiful skin .  .  .
The packaging is old-fashioned and they weren’t particularly nice to use – the roller-ball that dispensed the facial oil was reluctant to roll, the serum bottle had a savage squirt, and the peroxide in the main cream turned my eyebrows ginger.
As usual, I couldn’t see any difference in my skin but I’d taken the precaution of getting a professional before-and-after assessment with Nick Miedzianowski-Sinclair at the 3D Cosmetic Imaging Studio in Wimpole Street, Central London.
Nick’s specialist Visia camera took detailed photographs of my face, noting the exact extent of my wrinkles, pigment patches and so on, and after five weeks of using Karin Herzog there was a measurable reduction in wrinkles, age spots and red areas of the face. As Nick put it, ‘there’s some good evidence of efficacy’; genuine evidence that using this range will make your skin look younger.
I could have stuck with Herzog but I’ve been tempted away by Neo Strata, an ‘advanced anti-ageing regime’ from America – studies showed that after four weeks, 93 per cent of users saw improvements in wrinkles, skin texture and forehead lines.
Because the brand contains high levels of active ingredients such as ****glycolic acid*** SEE BELOW (which helps plump the skin), it is sold only through skin clinics, where the staff can keep an eye on how your skin is responding.
Cutting edge: Cream is applied on the epidermis. Products are becoming increasingly high-tech
Cutting edge: Cream is applied on the epidermis. Products are becoming increasingly high-tech
These clinics are a halfway house, if you like, between the prescription skincare that a doctor or dermatologist could provide and over-the-counter products.
And more developments will arrive thick and fast. To find out what the future hold for our faces, I visited the Episkin Predictive Evaluation Centre centre on the outskirts of Lyon, where scientists have actually cloned human skin in order to test new face cream formulations.
Episkin is owned by L’Oreal, the world’s biggest cosmetics company, and this is where the ingredients, and later the formulations, that will comprise many of the world’s best-selling skincare products are put through their paces on the reconstructed human skin – bionic skin, if you like – that is made in the lab.
The building itself looks unremarkable. There is no perimeter fence or security guard at the entrance, just a metal gate set in a high white wall. Inside, technicians, gloved and covered from top to toe in blue-hooded suits are hunched over tiny pots containing small, wet, white, floppy discs. This is Episkin - living, human skin.
I get to handle some of it. As I prod it with my latex-gloved fingers, the scientists regard me with tolerant amusement.
‘It’s quite strong,’ I venture.
‘It’s a bit like blister skin,’ says Dr Estelle Tinois-Tessonneaud, director of the Centre and the woman who, as a PhD student 30 years ago, invented the process by which the skin is created. ‘It is white because it has no blood supply and this version has no pigment, either.’
A scientist with a batch of cloned skin at the L'Oreal lab in Lyon
A scientist with a batch of cloned skin at the L'Oreal lab in Lyon
It is grown from skin cells taken from off-cuts donated by local plastic surgery clinics – then developed into discs of tissue.
As well as Episkin, which is used as the epidermis, or outside layer of the skin, the centre makes other skin models including ‘RealSkin’, which adds a dermis, the lower layer of skin, to the epidermis. Staff have even developed corneal (eye) and gum tissue.
Episkin has been authorised by the European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods to replace animal testing – something L’Oreal has been working towards, and investing £25 million a year in, for 20 years.
Of the 130,000 samples of tissue now made in Lyon, 30 per cent are sold to other cosmetics companies to use as alternatives to animal testing. (Such experiments have been banned in the EU since 2009, although some tests, for which alternatives have yet to be established, are still allowed.)
The rest of the tissue is used by L’Oreal for testing ingredients and the finished formulae for safety and effectiveness. Since 2008, some 13,000 formulae have been evaluated in this way.
And it’s not just L’Oreal that is producing such high-tech products, using the latest science.
At Boots, you can now find BioEffect, a serum containing a substance called epidermal growth factor (EGF). The scientists who discovered EGF won a Nobel prize for their work. Numerous peer reviewed trials have shown a measurable effect on the skin, reducing the number of wrinkles.
There’s nanotechnology (the science of using molecules measured in millionths of a metre) in sunscreens. These microscopic particles of the sun-blocking ingredient titanium dioxide make sure your face won’t be left ghostly white.
Stem cells, both plant and human, have been investigated for their regenerative power and put to work in serums. Genomics research, the study of the whole gene, has been used by skincare companies to work out which ingredients will ‘switch on’ genes within the skin that become less active with age – and the results are on sale in Olay’s bestselling Pro-X range and Lancome’s Genifique line.
Avon ladies will soon be selling a serum containing a new molecule called A-F33, which helps older skin regenerate itself as quickly as younger skin does. Again, there’s Nobel prize-winning research behind this molecule, and Avon has exclusive rights to it for two years.
Such detailed research is an expensive business, too; L’Oreal’s research and innovation budget for 2010, for example, was £525 million. But with the British skincare market set to top £1 billion this year, there is a vested interest in being at the vanguard.
Rather than taking the old-fashioned route of mixing up trial formulae and seeing what they might do for skin, L’Oreal’s scientists at the Episkin Centre are now doing this virtually, using computerised data from their previous experiments to evaluate new ingredient molecules and formulae for safety and for beneficial effects, before mixing up a batch.
Because the computer models can whizz through this process, it is fair to assume that the pace of change, and of new advances, is only going to accelerate in future. Watch this face…

***GLYCOLIC ACID DOES NOT PLUMP UP THE SKIN, IT'S AN ACID PEEL, THAT'S WHY STAFF HAVE TO KEEP AN EYE ON CLIENTS AS TOO MUCH USE WOULD CAUSE DAMAGE AND SCARRING BY THINING THE SKIN TOO MUCH (HONESTLY YOU WOULD THINK JOURNALISTS WOULD GET THEIR FACTS CORRECT)


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Sunday, 18 December 2011

ANTIWRINKLE CREAM REVIEW




I can safely say this about all so called anti wrinkle creams THEY DO NOT WORK. I will explain why: NOTHING CAN PENETRATE THE TOP LAYER OF THE SKIN THE EPIDERMIS EXCEPT MEDICATIONS, DRUGS DELIVERED BY ADHESIVE PATCHES AND ESSENTIAL OILS, THAT IS FACT. Ask any Dermatologist and he/she will tell you the same thing. If these so called anti wrinkle creams were to achieve what they claim, they would have to be licensed as a medication. 

The Epidermis consists of 5 layers and is designed to be tough and waterproof, it needs to be, think about it if you were to hop into a bath if you weren't waterproof you would absorb the water. The upper layers contain a tough protein called Keratin and this Upper Layer has no blood supply only the lowest layer of the 5 layers of the epidermis receives any nourishment through tissue fluid, the fluid you see within a blister. It is the true skin, the Dermis that contains all the nerve endings, blood vessels and collagen and elastin, it is collagen and elastin that gives our skin elasticity and firmness, through time, the specialised cells, Fibroblasts, that produce collagen and elastin, slow down, this can be further exacerbated by how we treat our skin, smoking, too much sun and UV light and stress damage these specialised cells. When we are young the collagen and elastin fibres lie neatly in flat interlocking rows, however, through movement, wrinkling our brows, squinting in bright light and of course the effects of gravity and free radicals (free radicals are pollution and the atmosphere) causes these neat rows to bunch up leading to indentations and wrinkles, see diagram above. So I'm afraid ladies there is no point in spending a vast amount on so called anti wrinkle cream. 

This does not mean you cannot do anything about this, you can prevent and slow the process down. Now apart from collagen and elastin plumping our skin up, the skin contains a lot of moisture and through the process of evaporation we constantly are losing fluid from the skin, so we can add moisture to the epidermis this will plump up this upper layer but unfortunately it cannot plump up a wrinkle. Moisturisers that contain a little oil will further stop and trap moisture in the skin and ideally it should be a vegetable oil base, such as grapeseed, sweet almond etc as these oils won't seal and block the pores leading to blackheads and blocked pores that can form spots. Many of the cheap facial moisturisers and even some of the expensive ones contain liquid paraffin, which is a by product of the oil industry, these can block the pores, this type of oil is fine for the body but not for the face so read the labels. You don't see it so much in skin creams these days as its a well known allergen and that is lanolin which is in fact 'Sheep sebum'

So the solution ladies and men too, is to use a good moisturiser, don't squint, get your eyesight checked so you can see properly, wear shades in bright light for the same reason. Eat a good balanced diet so your skin gets all the nutrients it needs. Don't smoke as nicotine constricts blood vessels thus nutrients to the skin, avoid stress or have some sort of relaxation therapy as adrenalin  also constricts the blood vessels and hormones such as the corticotrophic hormones, produced when stressed damage the fibroblasts that manufacture collagen and elastin. Lastly avoid too much UV light as this too damages collagen and elastin as UV light can penetrate the dermis. Remember too dry skin that doesn't produce enough sebum, oil, does line quicker than oily skin, which retains moisture. You do not have to spend a fortune on so called anti wrinkle creams. Vitamin E oil is a well known anti oxidant vitamin therefore its good at protecting the skin from 'free radicals' and under my Aromatherapy section under Holistic therapies I have a recipe for a cheap essential oil based skin cream that can make a difference.

I did come across this website http://www.topwrinklecreams.com/ and the only truthful thing it states on the site is "95% of all Wrinkle Creams simply do not WORK!" and even that is not entirely truthful, I will say 100% don't work, what they want you to do is buy their products which they claim do work. I'm sorry to say they won't, for if they could do all they claim they would have to be licensed as a medication, which of course they are not.


AROMATHERAPY ANTI-AGEING FACE CREME 

 

 RECIPE FOR AROMATHERAPY ANTI AGEING/ANTI WRINKLE FACE CREME
Before using any new product particularly on the skin its a good idea to patch test on a tiny area where you wish to apply it and leave it unwashed and alone for 48 hours, if there is no reaction then its safe to go ahead and use the product.
WARNING THIS RECIPE MUST NOT BE USED BY PREGNANT/NURSING WOMEN, THOSE SUFFERING FROM EPILEPSY OR CHILDREN
Aromatherapy oils MUST NOT BE USED UNDILUTED and for the face the dilution is 1%, this is because the face is close to the nose and therefore the limbic system.

For this recipe you will need a base creme and its best to obtain one from an aromatherapy supplier as they are designed to be used for blending. The active ingredients in this recipe are the essential oils themselves and not the base creme.

Essential oils
Frankincense
On the skin this oil helps regenerate helps smooth out wrinkles, it has a firming action, and helps balance sebum levels. The ancient Egyptians used this essential oil in mummification, therefore if it helped preservation it makes sense that it will help preserve the skin.

Lavender
Helps promote new cells again has a balancing effect on the skin and speeds up healing, so its especially effective at dealing with break outs.

Patchouli
This essential oil is also a good skin oil, particularly for rough dry areas and soothing for inflammed areas.

You will also require the contents of a Vitamin E capsule or a few drops of wheatgerm oil (which is high in Vitamin E) this extends the shelf life of the creme but more importantly Vitamin E is a powerful anti free radical agent and helps sooth the skin.

This creme is best used at night however if used during the day you would require the addition of a sun protection factor as UVA light ages the skin (see earlier articles on the skin)

To make a 1% dilution the ratio is as follows 1drop of essential oil to 100 drops of carrier oil/creme

1% dilutions
  • 5 ml:1 drops
  • 10 ml:2 drops
  • 15 ml:3 drops
  • 20 ml:4 drops
  • 25 ml:5 drops
  • 30 ml:6 drops
Therefore if you use a 30 ml jar of base creme you will need 6 drops of essential oil in total so for this recipe add 2 drops each of Frankincense, Lavender and Patchouli, add the contents of the Vitamin E capsule and stir well with a clean spatula. The preparation should last for 3 months and should be kept in a cool place out of direct sunlight.

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PSYCHIC QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

PSYCHIC QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

IS IT REALLY POSSIBLE TO FORECAST THE FUTURE AND OTHER QUESTIONS?

I am often asked various questions pertaining to the spirit world and various aspects of the psychic, here are some of them: I will in time feature more questions and answers as this webpage evolves

Q. Is a psychic or medium a fortune teller?
A. It may surprise you to know psychics and mediums are not fortune tellers
Q. Is it possible to forecast the future?
A.Well not 100% and this is because of free will.
Q. What is free will?
A. Free will is YOUR right to decide what you want to do about a situation, it is a choice
Q. How does free will affect a situation?
A. Well before we incarnate as Spirit in a human body, we decide on what experiences and challenges that will benefit our spiritual growth. However we are given the choice (free will) as to whether we go through with the experience or challenge. In effect we are allowed to change or mind.
Q. So are you saying we all know what lies before us?
A. Well in a way we all do. Remember we are 'Spirit' in a human body and your spirit does retain a memory but it is deep in our subconscious. This memory is retained deeply for a reason to help us fulfill our experiences and challenges we ourselves chose. However it is also at this deep level so we are not so aware. If you knew what lay before you would you go through with it? Probably not but we still retain this memory deeply and this reflects in our Aura.
Q. So what is the Aura?
A.The aura is The Aura is an electromagnetic field that surrounds living bodies, this includes people, animals, plants and crystals and is composed of several layers that are constantly moving. The Aura links us to whats known as Universal energy i.e. that is all the knowledge in the Universe past, present and future. It is on this aura that psychics are able to tap into and access your past, whats going on in the present and the possible future and I say possible specifically if your goal or desire is dependent on other people, for remember every person involved in a situation has free will.